Camino

Day 18 – Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz
20k – 331 to date

Today was the second of several days in the Meseta region. While as you can see from the pictures, this region is not as colorful as the others areas I have been in, it is still rich in history and strong in agriculture. Upon leaving Hornillos this morning, I ran into a long stretch of rolling hills and wheat field after wheat field. One of the strangest things I have seen is that landowners will “strip” the area around a hill to create more farmable acres, they effectively will cut into a hill and leave only a few trees and the top, almost creating a 20 foot high island of trees just to pull a few extra acres into production. Farmers also must be adept at plowing on an incline as even though this is ‘flatter’ land than the mountains, it is anything but flat. The top of a field to the bottom may be over 100 yards difference in elevation. The main crop here is wheat and there is a lot that is baled into hay. There is little to no irrigation. I did see one field that was the exception today and it had a row sprinkler system, fed by a canal, that had some green crop growing that I did not know what it was, at first I thought it was soybeans, but it was not. That was the only green I saw today.

I passed through a small area called San Bol that had one building, a bar and hostel to serve pilgrims, it’s claim to fame was a spring fed pool that had healing waters. The next town to pass through was a quaint village that looked dead except for the businesses that serve the pilgrims. A town like that shows what an economic help this Camino is to this area. Before arriving at my stopping point today, I passed through a set of arches. Upon reading the sign, that area was the ruins of a 14th century convent. It is amazing that so much of the structure has survived till today. In the US, most buildings crumble well before 100 years of age.

Today, I saw the ruins of a structure that had an original base of stone, then had cut stone added at some time and finally a brick addition. That structure would have been built and added to over 100’s of different years to have three distinct building types. When I arrived in my home for the night, Castrojeriz, I was greeted with large Church in the corner of the town and a on a hill overlooking the town is a pre-Roman castle, with most of the outer walls still in place. It is impressive looking.

Have I mentioned that on the trail, most pilgrims are very ecologically sound, except a special few. Each day, you see a few empty water bottles and some used napkins or tissues, but for as many people pass this way, the trail is still fairly clean.

Today, if you are interested, was a cold and rainy day. What do you do when trapesing across a country and the weather turns bad? Why pull out the rain poncho and don’t worry about the mud, this train just tries to keep moving. Tomorrow looks rainy also. And this region was supposed to be dry and hot!

One more day on the road….

Proverbs 4:18

continue to day 19

Day 17 – Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

21k – 311k to date

Early wake up call – This morning, in the municipal hostel in Burgos, I was awakened at 5:40 with what I thought was an awfully noisy cell phone alarm. By the time I gained my senses and took my earplugs out (remember ear plugs are essential), I realized that wasn’t a cell phone alarm, but the fire alarm going off! Since the hostel was completely full, there were 150 of us gaining our bearings and moving to the exit. What to take, I just grabbed my passport, sandals and a blanket and started the trek down 7 flights of stairs. Some people grabbed backpacks and some grabbed nothing. When we all got to the ground flooor, we found that the front door was locked. The side gate to the courtyard was also locked, so we had a lot of us effectively trapped in the courtyard. The police got there quickly and got the side gate open, so everyone filled out to the street. At 6:30, yes, 50 minutes after the fire alarm started and was still going, the fire crew arrived. Within about 30 minutes, it was determined there was no fire and it was safe to reenter. Damage to everyone’s sleep had been done, but as we talked, it makes a good story.

We later found out some more details about everything being locked. At almost all the hostels, they have a light’s out policy. That policy includes locking the front door and not letting anyone in after light’s out, that includes anyone already registered but who might have decided to stay to long at the bar. I did hear of one getting locked out in Puente la Reina. Anyways, the Burgos hostel had a person one duty all night, but he was deaf and never heard the firm alarm. I guess municipal codes are a little different here. I am just glad it was a false alarm.

Today, I had to stay in Burgos for a little extra time to buy a new pair of shoes, I blew the insole out of the right one I had about 4 days ago and it was killing the biomechanics of my walking. Once I had my shopping done, it was on the road and a late arrival into Hornillas. I was extremely lucky to get a bed there, as all hostels were completo (full), but one said he had one extra bed reserved but it was so late he did not think the one who reserved was coming. I think he just took pity on me.

The walk from Burgos put me in a different area known as the Meseta. This is a dryer area and almost exclusively wheat farming. While there are still some ups and downs, they are much more gentle and mostly the path today was just straight and longer. I have gone in three days from pine trees to cactus and sage. The views are different, but still worth looking at.

The local people we see on the roads and in the towns have a variety of attitudes for the pilgrims. Mostly, it is very positive and very friendly. In Logrono, there were two of us looking lost and he stopped his car in a busy intersection to show us the correct way. That is the attitude of most. The biggest difference is those that go to the local bars (cafe) after lunch time, these would just as soon you no bother their territory. Luckily, that is pretty minor and those types are readily identifiable. I love seeing an older couple walking get and they will stop, smile and say Buen Camino. Most appreciate those that are walking west.

Hiking is not a bad way of life.

Hebrews 13:1-2

continue to day 18

Day 16 Atapuerca to Burgos

20k – 290k to date

Today I left a sleepy little Spanish town to move to the hustle and bustle of a large town, Burgos. The first 10k of today’s walk was pleasant through rolling hills and an agricultural area that really looks to be struggling. Every so often, from the top of a hill or through a valley, you would get a peek at the city getting closer. As I approached the city, I first hit the airport property and had to walk around the property, can you believe they put an airport in the path of this Camino?

From there, it was a rather mundane and sometimes industrial trudge into Burgos. It wasn’t until the last 1.5k that we got close to the city center and the sights got better and walking was more enjoyable. One of the blogs said to take the bus 8 to downtown from before the airport and skip the entrance to the city, maybe they were right, but apparently walkers must walk.

The city center, or old town, of Burgos is quite a sight, it is hubbed around a massive Cathedral. The streets outward from there look to be spoked and that makes finding your way sometimes a little hard, but once you catch your bearing it is not bad.

The Cathedral of Burgos was absolutely amazing. The first doors I went in led to the main hall and immediately to the right was the chapel built to hold Santo Christo de Burgos, a sculpture of Jesus on a cross. This sculpture is said to have been made with real skin and hair, legend says that the priests must cut the hair as it grows. The sculpture is striking and it does give one pause for the gift Christ gave while on the cross. I did not take a picture as entry into that chapel is for prayer only. The rest of the Cathedral was massive to say the least, including a beautiful dome and many side chambers or crypts. One could spend a day there if time allowed. I did go back that evening for the nightly mass, wow, it was pageantry at it’s finest. Plus there was an overflow crowd, which was expected as there are tv monitors in the halls to view the mass. The mass was moving and beautifully done.

I wish I had not been there on a Sunday as there are several museums that would have been great to visit, but Sunday saw them closed. All in all, I, must say that the center city of Burgos is a great place to visit.

One question that I have is will I see any wildlife on this adventure. The answer is probably not, even when you are alone walking, there is always several others within a kilometer, so the wildlife in the wild doesn’t show up. Now the wildlife of some of the younger Camino pilgrims showed up for the first few days, but now it has disappeared. The younger pilgrims are just like the older ones now, early to bed to try to rest for the day ahead. I guess this really is a pilgrimage and not a party for all. A pilgrimage to test one’s spirit, one’s character, one’s endurance or one’s faith.

Goodnight from the big city of Burgos

John 3:16-17

continue to day 17

Day 15 Villafranco Montes de Oca to Atapuerca
19k – 270k to date

There are all types of characters traveling as pilgrims along this camino. One example is the other night we had a French couple show up late and they wanted a room alone, but none were available, so they stayed in the dorm room with everyone else. Late into the night, there was some rustling going on, a few moans and then in the morning, they were in the same bed together. All I can think is that it must have been colder than I thought…..

Most pilgrims are very considerate of others, bathroom decorum is such, most bathrooms are co-ed. You learn quickly not to worry if you walk into a bathroom and one of the opposite sex is coming out of a stall or taking up a sink. It did take a few times to get use to a strange woman walking in while you are shaving. The big question in everyone’s mind is do hairy underarms show up? Well, sorry to disappoint, be most are thankfully too modest, and I do mean thankfully. Gladly, you have stalls for showers and water closets, so even though we are all in the same bathroom, we are still separated.

Speaking of showers, I am becoming much better at showering, drying off and then getting dressed in a 30″ by 24″ shower stall. You should try to put your briefs or shorts on when you have a wet floor, wet feet and no room to move, just one of the challenges of life on the Camino. I will admit that I am only shaving about once ever 4 or 5 days, it cuts the bathroom time down a bunch. Most men have chosen not to shave at all, there are some rough looking guys out here. For women, I have only seen one woman applying makeup. I think most go natural. Hair care is all over the board, most guys have shorter hair, while girls have all kinds, but none is fixed beyond a few brushings.

Today was a day of climbing first thing for about 4k, then we stayed in the low mountain till about the last kilometer into Ages. I should have read ahead in the guide book, I was not prepared for the climb, but my legs took it well. The views today were very limited as almost all today was in a tree lined path. At one point, I had a look to the north and we were actually higher than a few wind towers.

Tomorrow, I am going to try to start early and be in Burgos by noon. There are two museums that I want to stop in and see. I was told the art work was fantastic in one of them. Yes, I am a tourist on two feet. It is amazing how much you see when moving by foot across a country. I even feel sorry for the bicyclist that are moving to fast to see what we see. Those in cars, what we are all used to, they never see anything but advertising signs. Not a condemnation, just how stark the difference is from walking vs riding.

From today till tomorrow!

Genesis 13:17

continue to day 16

Day 14 – Granon to Villafranca Montes de Oca

31k – 251k to date

Today was a great day for hiking, for people watching and for scenic agricultural vistas. Also, it was a loud day, why loud, because a lot of the trail paralleled a major highway with tons of trucks. There were several crossings of that highway and it is amazing more people don’t get run over. Just try to cross a highway fast when  your feet and legs are tired and sore. Everyone looked like ducks trying to waddle across as fast as they could.

The land is still changing from fertile farms to mostly wheat fields today. You can tell it is a much more arid climate we are marching into. I saw the first mission style Catholic Church today. It is what you think all of Spain should have, but most are medieval or Roman style architecture. I also finally went through one town today that did not have a Church as it’s city center. The views from this hill country are not as stunning as coming off the mountains a few days ago, but it is still worth the look.

We passed by some “hermit” caves today. Tonight at dinner, there was a general discussion on how one might become a hermit and when one hermit dies, how does the cave pass to the next hermit. As one also asked, there were three hermit caves or condos on on mountain face, how do you be a hermit with neighbors so close. Plus, how do hermits make bread or do they come to town to buy it. Hermit life leads to lots of questions. As you can see, given a days walk and a couple of glasses of wine, dinner conversations lead almost anywhere.

Tonight I was grabbed for dinner by Aaron from Austin and he introduced me to Tim and Anesthresia from upstate Illinois. They were an interesting couple, both just married on a second marriage and both retired at an early age. Tim reminded me of a stereotypical flower child, probably a trust fund baby as they had been traveling since May, except when he asked if we minded if he blessed the food. He is definitely one you cannot judge a book by it’s cover. We had a great visit and a very good meal.

Meals are generally good, however, they can be hit and miss. for 10 euros, we are fed a first course of salad, soup or pasta. Then a second course of a meat and potatoes, usually french fries. Then it is all followed up by a dessert of ice cream or fruit. A wine, water and bread is also severed with the meal. if you want something else, most places will have a regular menu to order from, but the pilgrim meal has been generally good and and a good value. Everyone is excited when  the salads are good and word spreads fast that is the thing to order. It is amazing how fresh veggies are desired when you don’t have much of them. I guess I need to mention that the desserts can be varied, tonight’s ice cream was plastic cups with a metal spoon, rather than a wooden spoon, however my fruit was a huge melon slice that was fresh and delicious.

Remind me to tell about the French couple in my next instaĺment.

Psalm 107:9

continue to day 15

Day 13 – Azofra to Granon
23k – 218k to date

Today was one of those days when you really appreciate life. Does that mean I felt great walking in Spain, well not physically great, but mentally great. I am glad I am following my heart and this adventure. And yes, it is an adventure.

For the last few days, I decided to lighten my backpack a bit and “cheat” as one Spaniard told me, I am shipping my cpap and insulin pack ahead with a company that will transfer a sack like mine or a full backpack. It is amazing what those six pounds of medical equipment make on the feet at the end of the day. So, if I am cheating, I apologize, but my feet say thank you! I may not qualify now as a purist, but I am here to feel good and enjoy my adventure, this will help.

The variety of traveler over here is amazing. The last few nights, I have had dinner with a group that is determined to make Santiago in 28 days or less and to complete each day’s hike before noon. Needless to say, they are power walkers and type A personalities. They left me today and I won’t see them again. There is one group of Spaniards that hit the night’s stopping town, shower and then hit the bar (not the restaurant kind) and drink till bedtime, but they always show up the next day. There is a fair amount of 20 somethings, some college, some not, that are on the walk for the social aspect, but in general are nice to be around and respectful of others. There are a few crusty old guys like me that enjoy just sitting and talking when stopped. Then there are older ladies, that once on the road, they travel in packs and there is a constant buzz from their group due to the continual talking, how can you talk 6 to 8 hours straight? All these are just part of the group that has been traveling about the same distance per day as I am.

Tonight’s stop was a little off the beaten path, I had my cpap transferred to a hostel in Granon, I thought, only to find out it is 2k south of town. Sherry was watching the spot tracker this afternoon and was texting me that I was off track. Who wants to walk an extra 2k after the end of a long day and also walk an extra 2k tomorrow on a planned longer day……. Anyways, there are a few here, and the place is quite nice and quiet compared to the municipal hostels I have stayed in. Plus,
no fight for the showers and there will be toilet paper left by the end of the day! I had a late lunch here and it was good, dinner will come in a bit.

Till tomorrow,

Romans 12:18

continue to day 14

Day 12 – Navarrete to Azofra
23k – 195k to date

Today was a day of contrasts of climates as I move into the more semi-arid region of La Rioja, the best wine producing region in Spain. The grapes are very close to ripe and a couple of vineyards are already harvesting. It is interesting to watch them harvest, the workers cut the grape clumps by hand with a short curved hand knife. It is backbreaking work as the grapes are generally toward the bottom of the plant. Once cut, the grapes are placed in a 10 gallon container, then dumped into a bucket on the front of a tractor, then finally dumped into a container that looks like a grain cart. I assume the winery is the next stop. Interesting process. The grapes are all reds and look delicious.

The one thing that did not change today was the entire route was lined with vineyards, there is no telling how many acres of vineyards there are in this region. The first section of the hike today was 17k with no town or village passed through. I am glad I stocked up on water before I left. We went through the city of Najera, it was the dirtiest town we have been in. Then another 6k to my home for the night. The municipal hostel here is an old warehouse that has three floors but with fiberboard walls put up, functional, but not fancy.

When we walk through a bigger city, like Najera today, it is a little disconcerting. We are use to the “rural” life and increased traffic and noise seems harder to deal with. I know I have mentioned that before, but it is amazing how your outlook and perception changes in just one week!

It is fun meeting new people along the way. As you meet people, those you see several times become friends and they always respond with smiles, hellos or conversations. While I am technically alone, I am not alone. I usually walk my own pace, so I have no walking partners as some have become, but once evening is here, there are those that want to visit. Richard, from last night’s dinner, just stopped by and visited about today and tomorrow’s plans. I will lose him tomorrow as he is doing slightly higher kilometers than I am. It is nice to be able to stop and visit with new people and learn about their lives.

As Forrest Gump said, that is all I have to say about the that…

ECCLESSIASTIES 3:11

continue to day 13